Barcelona travelogue: Exploring the vibrant heart of Catalonia
- cdavis884
- 4 days ago
- 5 min read
By Bob Kosian
Recently, my wife, daughter and I had the pleasure of visiting Barcelona for an extended stay. Barcelona is a city that pulses with energy, art and history at every corner. From the moment we arrived for our first visit thirty years ago, we were captivated by its unique blend of Gothic and Art Nouveau architecture, which the Catalans call Modernisme, pioneered by the famous Antoni Gaudí.
A brief history of Barcelona
Barcelona dates to the 15th century BCE as a Phoenician settlement and later a Roman colony. It flourished in the Middle Ages as part of the crown of aragon, becoming a major Mediterranean seaport, and when much of its surviving Gothic architecture was built. Modern Barcelona was built on the foundation of an economic boom during the early 1900s, when the old city walls were demolished and the city expanded beyond the Gothic Quarter, transforming the urban landscape with the establishment of the Eixample district and the Avenue Diagonal. Hosting the 1992 Olympic Games led to major revitalization of its waterfront. Today, Barcelona is the capital city of Catalonia and home to more than 1.5 million residents. The Catalan culture (language, food and attitude) is very distinct from the rest of Spain.
Where to stay in Barcelona and daily life
We recommend staying near Passeig de Gràcia, which is in the Eixample district. Graced by wide, treelined streets and avenues, this is where the best shops and restaurants are located. The food scene is amazing. Start by getting fresh pastry and a strong cup of coffee in the morning. There is literally a bakery on every street! Lunch. Most restaurants open at 1 p.m. and close at 4 p.m.; they typically offer a pre fixe three or four-course menus at reasonable prices. We had no trouble just “walking in” without a reservation. These same establishments open for dinner at 8 p.m. and reservations are recommended.
Three of our favorites are Batea, which is a “modern seafood” restaurant. The menu, décor and service are top-notch. There is also Jacqueline, which is a very chic Mediterranean establishment with French influence. In the evening, Jacqueline has a jazz club and lively bar scene. Akiro is a modern Japanese hand roll place with excellent seafood. Tapas and Pintxo restaurants open early and close at 1 a.m. They don’t take reservations, but the wait is usually less than 15 minutes. Our favorite Tapas place is Cerveceria Catalana. Don’t miss the foie gras and fillet mignon pintxo!
We rented an apartment, so each day we ate either lunch or dinner out, but not both. The grocery stores range from the United States-style supermarket to the covered markets called Mercats. Mercats are located in each district. They sell both fresh and prepared food. The seafood is outstanding. Iberian ham is everywhere. Although the city boasts more than 10,000 taxis and very good public transportation, Barcelona is a very “walkable” city. Motorists stop for pedestrians at crosswalks. We averaged 15,000 steps per day. Despite what you see on TV, the local people and merchants are very friendly. Passable English is spoken everywhere. A few phrases in Spanish are useful or use Google Translate.
If you are interested in “shopping,” Barcelona is well known for fashion, home furnishing, textiles and the like. There is a wonderful design museum called DHub, which is currently showcasing Miguel Mila’s work.
I’m delighted to relate with you highlights from our journey and the top places you absolutely must visit when exploring this enchanting city and the surrounding area.
Top places to visit in Barcelona
Sagrada Família, Antoni Gaudí’s masterpiece, is impossible to miss. Under construction for over 100 years, the basilica’s towering spires and intricate facades are awe-inspiring, and stepping inside reveals a world of stunning stained glass and innovative design. Book tickets online far in advance to avoid long lines or being sold out.
Park Güell is a whimsical public park that showcases Gaudí’s signature style, with colorful mosaics, undulating benches and panoramic views of Barcelona. Strolling through its gardens felt like walking through a fairytale.
Park de la Ciutadella is the city’s main park. Built in 1869, it was expanded for the 1888 Universal Expo, which left behind iconic landmarks like Casada Monumental and Castell dels Tres Dragons. It is lovely for a stroll.
La Rambla is the city’s iconic promenade that bustles with life. Stretching from Plaça de Catalunya to the waterfront, La Rambla is for people-watching, sampling local treats like churros and visiting the famous La Boqueria Mercat.
The Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic) houses labyrinthine streets, medieval buildings, hidden squares and charming cafés, which made us feel as though we’d stepped back in time.
Do see Casa Batlló and Casa Milà (La Pedrera); these two architectural wonders on Passeig de Gràcia showcase Gaudí’s imaginative, nature-inspired designs. Their striking facades and creative interiors are a must-see for art and architecture lovers.
Palau de la Musica was designed by Moderniste architect Lluis Domenech Montaner and built between 1905 and 1908 for the Catalan coral society that was a driving force of a cultural movement known as the Renaixenca a.k.a. Catalan Rebirth. It is a jewel of a building, but more importantly, it is the musical hub of Barcelona, putting on over 600 shows a year, from Opera to Rock ‘n’ Roll. It is better to see a show than just to take a tour.
Hospital Sant Pau was the main hospital of Barcelona until 2009. It was designed by Pere Domenech, the son of the architect Lluis, in a Moderniste style with a Moorish influence. The hospital contains thirty individual buildings, all connected by a series of underground tunnels covering an entire city block. It was designed to be a hopeful and cheerful place for recovering patients with beautiful parks and a soothing environment.
The Picasso Museum Opened in 1963. It covers his early years growing up in Barcelona, his classical training and the evolution of his art into Cubism. This is the first museum dedicated to Picasso and it has an impressive (4,251) number of works of art.
Salvatore Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres (a day trip) is considered a “is a must see” on the “Dali Triangle,” which includes his house in Portlligat and the Gala Dali Castle in Pubol. The Theatre- Museum was designed by Dali himself and showcases his work. His crypt is on display.
Sitges is a classic 1890s beach town about an hour’s train ride. Spend the day. Walk along the beach promenade, have lunch at Timo’s, a very chic Mediterranean / Asian restaurant. Explore the historic sites, including Museu de Maricel, Museu del Cau Ferrat and the Church of Sant Bartomeu & Santa Tecla. These sites are in close proximity to each other. Advanced reservations are required for English-speaking guided tours.
Final thoughts
Barcelona truly offers something for everyone. Whether you’re passionate about art, architecture, food, shopping or simply soaking up the Mediterranean atmosphere, the city will leave you inspired and longing to return. I hope this travelogue helps you plan your own adventure to Barcelona and discover the magic that awaits in this unforgettable destination.
